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Published in Gulf News, April 25, 2006

Browsers take a bruising

When Mr T.S. Shanbhag's phone rings, he invariably has to move a heap of books to get to it. As he writes out a bill at his desk, he does so on a stack of periodicals two feet high. And when he sits, you can see only the top of his head behind piles and piles of books on a desk whose surface probably hasn't been seen in years.

Premier Bookshop has 100,000 books crammed into 600 square feet of space. Apart from a body-width aisle that winds reluctantly around the shop, there are books everywhere: from the piles that begin on the floor, to the shelves that touch the ceiling. Teetering stacks cling to every surface and, in places, they are three or four deep. Regulars swear there are books that haven't seen light of day in 20 years.

Almost every visit to Premier is rent with the sound of 50 books tumbling onto a sheepish customer who has naively tried help himself. Regulars have learned to simply point out their title of choice to shop helpers who are adept at extracting a volume from halfway down a pile as tall as they are.

Premier Bookshop, established in 1971, is one of Bangalore's best-loved institutions. Just like the fans of the movie star, Dr Rajkumar, who recently rioted over the death of their hero, Premier fans are wracked with sorrow. Their favourite bookshop will close down in two months.

News of the closure hit the local press in a wave. My mother cried when she read it. People commiserated with each other. There's talk of a "Save Premier" campaign. I don't have a lot of hope though. In the last few years some of Bangalore's most defining fixtures have been but ephemera in the face of money and bulldozers.

Not that Premier has any architectural relevance. It's a basic shopfront in a dismal building from the Seventies. But its location is excellent, just off Bangalore's famous shopping street, MG Road. And this is the main cause of its demise.

On the surface, we are losing Premier to something as banal as a lapsed lease. But the real reasons run painfully deep. Thanks to Bangalore Booming, the building owner can command a rent astronomically higher than one Mr Shanbhag can pay. Premier Bookshop will, undoubtedly, be replaced by something radiant in glass and stainless steel. Something with a window display.

As with many of Premier's regulars, I am genuinely disturbed by news of its passing. Mr Shanbhag has seen me buy a lifetime of reading. He has watched my mind grow, starting from my picture-book days. He has seen all my fads, all my pretensions, all my phases.

And while the shop is heaven for the browser, don't be fooled by the chaos. People who need a book in a hurry have been astounded by Mr Shanbhag's memory. There's no database here - either electronic or written. Ask him for a book, and if he doesn't have it (this is unlikely), he'll know instantly. If he does, he'll think for five seconds, then walk you across to a pile behind a pile behind a pile, and pull the book out.

And it's not something we've taken for granted. Premier has been celebrated over the years for its quirks. We can't believe that we will soon have no real alternative to the big bookshops. The shops that are spread over acres. Shops with titles well laid out and easily accessible. Shops where a young thing stands behind a computer and says, "How may I help you?".

Shops in which the books lie no more than one layer deep.

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