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Published in Gulf News, September 26, 2006

Sofa beds, big cities,
old friends

In the Museum of Modern Art in New York is a work called The Lights Going On and Off by Martin Creed. It is an empty gallery with bare walls in which the lights are set on a continuous timer to turn on for five seconds and off for five seconds.

It's the sort of piece that can set people's teeth gnashing, but in the context of the museum, it was strangely compelling. When something so mundane as lights going on and off is presented as art, the tendency is to scrutinise, which forces surprising observations from the experience. It's all about setting, and the last three weeks of sofa beds, big cities and old friends have been a similar exercise in context for me. Old familiarities are presented in new places, giving them unexpected emotional weight. The happiest findings were that years may pass, spouses may come, countries may change, but the rhythms of old friendships stay the same.

Take A, an old friend from Bangalore. We'd often sit on the balcony of her parents' apartment, sipping on excellent South Indian filter coffee and enjoying both conversation and silence. Many years and a few lifetimes later, we were on the balcony of her beautiful apartment in London indulging in the old ritual. Instead of overlooking the roofs and coconut trees of Indiranagar, we were looking out over the Thames and the Millennium Dome. So much has changed in both our lives, but the rhythm of conversation and silence came back instantly. And good South Indian filter coffee drunk out of tumblers over a London skyline is a compelling transposition; it works as modern art.

This riff of 'old image, new context' was repeated when fate led me to New York for the first time. When I emerged from the subway onto a street shadowed by skyscrapers and interspersed with yellow taxis, I felt as if I'd come home. New York is so minutely familiar before a visit, and so easygoing during one, that it makes itself your city instantly. There isn't even a welcome, it's just yours for the taking.

I stayed with people in three distinct neighbourhoods. With each set of old friends I quickly rediscovered why we'd all gravitated to each other in the first place, with easy conversations going well into the night. Everything about their lives had changed from the last time we'd met, so I got the most pleasure from sharing in the mundane. I accompanied one friend as she walked her dog. I helped two friends encourage their child to eat breakfast quickly before school. I set up audio speakers with one at his flat in Manhattan.

And everybody who walked with me around the mythical big city tried to set it in context. New Yorkers seem to pride themselves in knowing the history of their neighbourhoods and how it relates to life around them. Every neighbourhood I was shown seems to have followed the same pattern. They were once rough areas, but rents were low, so artists moved in. As they brought their hipness with them, the rich folk started to move in, rents went up and the artists had to move on. The rapidity of this change of context is astounding.

The days went by and soon it was time for me to move on too. I left, aware that I may or may not meet these friends again for years. But it's heartening to know that they're there and that everything we shared in the past can be conjured again with a shared meal, a cup of coffee, or the remembrance of a near-forgotten foolishness.

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